Food & Drink

Three Unusual Cheeses Worth Trying: Hemp, Washed Rind, and Wine-Soaked

A hands-on look at three genuinely different cheeses: Jumi hemp cheese, the washed rind St Cera, and wine-aged Caciobarricato.

Three artisan cheeses including a soft seeded wheel, a wrinkled washed rind round, and a wine-stained pear-shaped cheese

Introduction

Some cheeses are made to disappear politely into a sandwich. Others announce themselves the moment you lift the cloche. This tasting covers three of the latter: a creamy hemp-seed cheese from Swiss artisan Jumi, a strong washed rind cow’s milk cheese named after a Somerset saint, and an Italian pulled-curd cheese aged in red wine and marc. Each one is unusual in its own way, and each one rewards a slightly different way of eating it.

Jumi Hemp Cheese: Creamy, Herby, and Unexpected

Hemp cheese incorporates hemp seeds or hemp-based ingredients into the cheese making process. The seeds come from the hemp plant, a variety of cannabis that contains low levels of THC and high levels of beneficial compounds like protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and vitamins. This particular wheel is the work of the wife of an artisan at Jumi, who found hemp growing in her garden and used roasted seeds and hemp oil to produce a deliciously creamy cheese.

The smell is unlike any ordinary cheese: herbal and earthy, though notably it does not smell like cannabis. The texture is soft and creamy, and the little dark flecks of roasted seed add a small crunch that does not taste of much on its own. On the palate it goes genuinely herby and earthy, and the flavour grows on you more than the aroma does.

A soft creamy cheese being cut open to reveal a pale interior dotted with seeds

Where this cheese really earns its place is on a cheeseboard with something sweet. Paired with pear or a fruity chutney, the sweetness draws out even more of the creaminess, and it becomes genuinely delicious. On its own it can taste a little too earthy for some, but with fruit it comes together beautifully. It is also a talking point, and when you are serving food to a group, the story is almost as important as the taste.

St Cera: Strong, Buttery, and Best Balanced

St Cera is a small but intense washed rind cow’s milk cheese for those who like their cheese on the strong side. It is named after St Cera, a patron saint associated with the ancient village of Ilchester in Somerset, England, though the cheese itself is made in Bungay in Suffolk from raw cow’s milk and animal rennet. It is often compared to Brie or Camembert in texture and flavour, and it is typically matured for about four weeks, developing a rich, buttery taste with mild mushroom notes and a slightly earthy bloomy rind.

Straight from the spoon it is very strong, very salty, and deeply nutty, with farmyard flavours that some tasters confuse with blue cheese. The difference is funk rather than blue. On its own it demands attention; balanced with quince paste on a water biscuit, it works in real harmony, though you do lose some of the nuttiness in the pairing.

A wrinkled washed rind cheese served on a spoon with quince paste

Expect a melting centre that may require a spoon, a pale ivory interior, and a wrinkled rind. It pairs well with fruits such as apples or pears, and with a variety of wines from crisp whites to light reds. If you enjoy intense cheeses, this one is easy to recommend. If you are newer to strong cheese, serving it with something sweet takes the edge off the intensity.

Caciobarricato: The Drunken Cheese

Caciobarricato is a unique cheese made using the pulled curd pasta filata technique, shaped like a pear and matured for at least three months in barrels with red wine and marc, an alcoholic spirit derived from grape refuse. Throughout ageing, the curd is stretched and twisted, giving it a soft, elastic, stringy and supple texture. It is a northern Italian cheese drowned in southern Italian wine.

The aroma is all fruity, grape-based spirit rather than cheese. The first bite brings a surprising chalkiness, then an intensely fruity, acidic, winey flavour that dries the mouth in the same way a good Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino does, except softer and creamier. Some tasters pick up an almost Sambuca-like aftertaste that lingers on the tongue, and you can genuinely taste the alcohol on your breath afterwards.

A pear-shaped cheese with a wine-stained rind resting on parchment paper

This is the most divisive of the three. It is fascinating and genuinely unlike anything else, but it is not hugely cheesy in the traditional sense; the intrigue comes from the wine character. For that reason it works best as a cheeseboard centrepiece rather than an everyday snacking cheese. The flavour profile is moderately intense with pronounced notes of wine, a sharp tangy edge, and a texture that would likely melt very well thanks to its soft, creamy base.

Overall Buying Advice

Choose the Jumi hemp cheese if you want a creamy, story-rich cheeseboard option that shines alongside pears or chutney. Choose St Cera if you like strong, buttery, farmyard-driven washed rind cheeses and want something in the Brie and Camembert family with far more intensity. Choose Caciobarricato if you want a conversation starter with real wine character and a texture you have almost certainly never tasted before.

A cheeseboard styled with fruit, chutney, and several artisan cheeses

All three suit a mixed cheeseboard, but the pairings matter. Sweet fruit transforms the hemp cheese and tames St Cera, while Caciobarricato is best appreciated on its own, where its wine-soaked character can be the centre of attention.

Conclusion

Three cheeses, three very different personalities: herby and creamy, strong and buttery, and fruity and winey. If your cheeseboard has been looking a little predictable lately, any of these will fix that. Just remember to bring the pear.

Further reading

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