Kurono Tokyo: Three Watches That Showcase Japanese Independent Watchmaking

Introduction

Japanese watchmaking has been enjoying a remarkable moment, with major manufacturers recording strong results in recent years. But the story of Japanese horology is not limited to the industry giants. A growing number of independent makers are pushing the craft forward, and few have captured the attention of collectors quite like Kurono Tokyo.

Kurono Tokyo is the brainchild of Hajime Asaoka, one of Japan’s most respected watchmakers. Born in 1965, Asaoka descends from generations of traditional Japanese swordsmiths, a heritage that fueled his curiosity for finely made objects. He transitioned from a career in design into the mechanical complexity of watchmaking, teaching himself through deep study of Dr. George Daniels’ book “Watchmaking.” In 2009, he created the first Japanese wristwatch with an in-house tourbillon, and he remains one of the only non-European members of the prestigious Academy of Independent Watchmakers.

In 2019, Asaoka established Kurono Tokyo to make the essence of his bespoke timepieces more widely available. The brand retains the exquisite design codes of his high-end creations while taking a more industrialized approach to production. The design language leans heavily on the Art Deco movement, with hand-mixed lacquer dial colors, concentric dial rings, and unique typography. By using reliable Japanese movement calibers from Miyota and Seiko, Kurono keeps prices more attainable, ranging from $1,500 to $2,000 for the classic series and up to around $5,000 for higher-end complications.

Kurono Tokyo employs a democratic pre-order system, opening short ordering windows typically just a few minutes long. Anyone who places an order within that limited time frame receives a watch, and purchases are restricted to one per customer to discourage speculation. The brand has earned widespread acclaim, including multiple nominations at the GPHG, often described as the Oscars of watchmaking.

Evaluation Criteria

When assessing these three Kurono Tokyo watches, several factors stand out. Design originality matters greatly, as each piece carries distinctive Art Deco-inspired elements. Movement quality and reliability are also central, given the brand’s use of modified Miyota and Seiko calibers. Craftsmanship and finishing deserve attention, particularly for the Grand series with its artisanal techniques. Finally, value and collectibility play a role, since Kurono’s limited production and pre-order system create a unique market dynamic.

Kurono Tokyo Jubilee Sensu EOL

The Jubilee Sensu EOL is a 2025 limited edition anniversary watch created to celebrate Asaoka’s 60th diamond jubilee. The EOL in the name stands for “end of life,” referring to the discontinued new old stock movement inside the watch, a modified 4 Hz automatic Miyota caliber 9133. The movement was modified to remove the calendar window, giving the dial a cleaner appearance. While the day complication was removed, the power reserve was retained, taking the form of a highly stylized Japanese folding fan known as a sensu, which sits recessed at the 10 o’clock position.

The dial itself is silver-plated and covered in an icy blue color known as white indigo or shirai. Alongside the visual excitement of the power reserve fan motif, the dial surface showcases a shimmering guilloche pattern with a wave-like texture resembling a flower. At three o’clock sits a beveled platform with the Japanese word for Chrono rendered in Katakana script. Hours are marked with minuscule steel domes as well as kanji calligraphy script in black. The minute and second hands are slightly curved at the tips, matching the contour of the dial and the box crystal.

The dial is protected by a dramatically boxed sapphire crystal, all set within a highly polished 38 mm case in stainless steel, capped with a black onyx cabochon on the crown. Priced at a retail of $2,230, the Jubilee Sensu EOL sold out quickly upon release and was nominated at GPHG in 2025 in the Challenge Prize category.

Kurono Tokyo Grand Hagane

The Grand Hagane was introduced in 2021 within the elevated tier of Kurono watches known as the Grand series. These watches place an emphasis on artisanal craftsmanship and hand-finishing techniques. The Grand Hagane features an urushi lacquer dial, a highly time-intensive process that can take months from preparation through final curing. The lacquer, derived from the sap of the urushi tree, is applied in successive layers by skilled artisans in Kyoto. Each layer is cured in controlled humidity before being polished by hand using charcoal.

The resulting surface develops a deep lustrous black with a subtle warmth of tone, characteristic of this traditional work. The finish reflects a long lineage of Japanese craftsmanship, evoking the aesthetic discipline of sword-making traditions and serving as a nod to Asaoka’s ancestral heritage. The urushi technique dates back over a thousand years, and due to the painstaking level of detail involved, the dials have a high rejection rate, making each one even more exclusive.

The dial markings utilize ancient koji numerals, an intricate font historically used in important documents. The 37 mm case keeps to the highly polished Art Deco look associated with Asaoka’s work, with sweeping curves on the lugs and a sloped bezel creating a dramatic profile. Inside beats the Miyota 90S5 automatic from its premium series, with a slim architecture of just 3.9 mm well suited for a refined dress watch. It offers a 40-hour power reserve, features hacking and hand winding, and runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour for that classically smooth second hand sweep.

Since the Hagane belongs to the Grand model family, the caseback is engraved with Asaoka’s signature in kanji calligraphy along with his personal seal. Priced at $3,171 in 2021, the Grand Hagane typically sells above its original retail price, with unworn sets commanding higher prices.

Kurono Tokyo Chronograph P1 Shanghai

The Chronograph P1 Shanghai special edition was released in 2024 to celebrate the opening of Kurono’s first boutique outside of Japan. The P designation in P1 stands for “Purist,” as the watch is a response to collectors’ requests for a no-date dial and a cleaner layout. The 38 mm P1 features a special black-on-white panda colorway accented with a carmine red-brown minute chapter ring inside the outer pulsometer scale, a tribute to the sign outside the Shanghai salon.

The carmine colored accents were created using an intricate pointillism technique, with tiny dots giving the ring a unique variegated effect. The black subdials feature circular snailing for added dimension. While the applied dome indices are a Kurono design hallmark, additional visual interest comes from the polished six and 12 markers done in gothic style. As on other Kurono models, the highly polished hands are hand-bent toward the outer reaches of the dial.

True to Asaoka’s uncompromising nature, the Seiko automatic NE86 PWT chronograph movement was modified in-house to accommodate the no-date dial. The column wheel vertical clutch caliber is only available with a date complication, so instead of simply removing the date window, the NE86 crown mechanism was modified from a two-stage to a single-stage pull, eliminating the ghost crown position.

Buying Advice

In the landscape of independent watchmaking, one consistent reality is the constraint of scale. Many independents produce in very limited numbers, often in the hundreds and in some cases only dozens per year depending on the complexity of the work. These constraints are a byproduct of a high degree of hand craftsmanship, naturally resulting in elevated price points.

The question of whether these watches are worth it depends heavily on the collector. For the more practical among us who simply want a robust, sensible watch to wear every day, they likely won’t be waiting for the next order window to get their hands on a Kurono. But for collectors drawn to design and a more idiosyncratic expression of watchmaking, there is a compelling case to be made.

What stands out most is Hajime Asaoka’s foresight in recognizing an emerging gap in the market and addressing it early. Kurono effectively translates the design language of high-end independent watchmaking into a more accessible format without entirely abandoning its sensibility. In that sense, it reflects a broader shift in the industry: the idea that aspiration does not need to be limited strictly to scarcity.

Conclusion

Kurono Tokyo represents a fascinating case study of an independent doing something different and sticking the landing. The brand has been able to showcase, at a more attainable price, the marks of a high-end exclusive independent maker from Japan. There is a thirst among many collectors to be able to dabble in this world, and Kurono shows that you do not need to have millions of dollars to play in that sandbox.

Each of these three watches demonstrates a different facet of Kurono’s design philosophy. The Jubilee Sensu EOL offers a striking limited edition with a unique fan-shaped power reserve. The Grand Hagane showcases traditional urushi lacquer craftsmanship at its finest. And the Chronograph P1 Shanghai delivers a cleaner, purist take on the chronograph format. For collectors who appreciate design-driven, idiosyncratic watchmaking, Kurono Tokyo deserves serious consideration.