Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm Review: A Smaller Case That Changes Everything

Introduction

There are watches that look brilliant on paper but fail the moment they meet a wrist. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has long been one of the most original concepts in luxury watchmaking, blending industrial design, high-end mechanics, and jewelry-inspired craftsmanship into something that stands apart from a sea of derivative ideas. Yet for many, the 40mm case simply did not work. Its wide sculptural architecture wore larger than its stated diameter, creating an unconventional experience that did not suit every wrist.

In 2026, Bulgari released a 37mm version of the Octo Finissimo, and with it, the equation changes entirely. This smaller case preserves the emphatic design statement while delivering a far more wearable experience. This review takes an in-depth look at the 37mm time-only model in sandblasted matte titanium.

Design Heritage

Most collectors know Gerald Genta as one of the forefathers of integrated luxury sports watches. He designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976. But Genta was far from done after those achievements. One of his later designs, the Gerald Genta Octagonal, featured an eight-sided case shape that foreshadowed what was yet to come.

In the 1990s, Gerald Genta sold his brand to the Hourglass in Singapore, which subsequently sold the rights to Bulgari around the turn of the millennium. Building on Genta’s octagonal design language, Bulgari developed what would become the Octo collection. Early models such as the 2004 Gerald Genta Octo Bi-Retro featured a jumping hour display, retrograde minutes, an enamel dial, and the now familiar sculptural multi-faceted case.

The modern Octo debuted in 2012 with the Octo Solotempo, designed by Bulgari’s longtime watchmaker Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. His vision combined an eight-sided multi-faceted case with architectural inspiration drawn from Rome. The bracelet followed a year later on the Octo Steel, before 2014 introduced both the platinum Octo Finissimo and the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo Tourbillon.

Measuring just 5mm thick, the Tourbillon set a world record at the time and marked the beginning of the Octo Finissimo’s remarkable run of ultra-thin achievements. Since then, the collection has grown to nearly 30 different references across a wide range of materials, culminating in the astonishing 1.7mm thick Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC in 2024.

Design and Case

The 37mm model in sandblasted matte titanium offers exactly the right texture, neither too coarsely grained nor too fine. Its lower reflectivity allows the 110 step facets of the case to stand out in brighter lighting, and the shadows created by the amazing dimensionality will have you checking your wrist more often than you realize.

The broad angled lugs are a strong point of the emphatic statement of the case, and the wide circular bezel slopes upward to meet the flat sapphire crystal protecting the dial. The screw-down crown gets its texture from two rows of eight raised rectangles, mimicking the case shape, and it is capped by a black ceramic cabochon. The watch offers 30m of water resistance, a common spec among ultra-thin watches.

The case back is secured by eight screws with minimal specs surrounding a sapphire display back, protecting the view of the movement within.

Bracelet and Clasp

The bracelet is one of the hallmark features of the Octo Finissimo, with multi-faceted angles following the form of the case and constructed of the same blasted titanium. It has been redesigned from earlier models, now with the links produced in two separate parts and bringing a more pronounced taper to the appearance.

In another departure from previous Octos, the signed hidden butterfly clasp is now actuated by twin spring-loaded push buttons for easier opening. At this moment, it does not appear that there are any other options for straps for these 37mm models.

Dial and Legibility

The simple dial is surrounded by an eight-sided opening that mirrors the thematic shape of the Octo series. The warm gray color reinforces the monochromatic look, recalling the tone of the titanium. A bit of contrast comes in the way of the black hands and printed markings, bringing better legibility than the tone-on-tone execution of other Octo models.

Nothing is excessive about this dial. Simple raised batons mark the hours apart from the Arabic numerals at 12 and 6, which have become an Octo design signature. The markings are printed, only getting some mild raised detailing to avoid unnecessary clearance for the hands so that the case can remain thin. The hands have a black faceted dauphine shape, partially skeletonized with an angular appearance that continues to push forward the Octo aesthetic.

A small seconds display appears at 7:30, again rendered with simple stick indices and a dauphine hand. Dial text is blissfully clean, consisting solely of the Bulgari wordmark in black below 12 and a tiny Swiss made designation flanking 6. Taken as a whole, the dial does nothing but complement the blasted appearance of the case and the bracelet, bringing a futuristic cool to the entire package.

Movement and Performance

Bulgari needed to create an entirely new caliber to fit the downsized case, with the development taking more than three years. While the new caliber is slightly thicker than the BVL 138 of the 40mm titanium model at 2.35mm versus 2.23mm respectively, the overall volume of the new caliber is 20% lower than before.

Perhaps even more impressive is that the redesign did not come with a performance penalty. Despite its smaller footprint, the BVL 100 increases the power reserve from 60 to 72 hours thanks to a more efficient mainspring barrel architecture. The platinum micro rotor has also been redesigned to improve winding efficiency, helping extend that reserve to a full three days.

The keyless works have been re-engineered for greater durability, and together these incremental changes result in a movement that is not only smaller but also more robust and efficient than the caliber it replaces. The BVL 100 runs at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour or 3Hz. It does hand-wind, but it does not hack in a conventional sense. It features 31 jewels, many of them visible through the display case back.

The decoration of this caliber is quite nice to look at. Given that this is a micro rotor movement set into the bridge itself, much of the watch movement is on display. The platinum micro rotor has beveled edges, including on the circular center point, with a reflective sheen. The unobstructed bridges show off their shimmering appearance, with central bridges showcasing a radial Côtes de Genève pattern, a change compared to previous Octo Finissimo models. The edges are nicely polished, featuring machine anglage, and there are polished sinks for the jewels and the screws, which have polished tops. Underneath the micro rotor and the balance bridge, perlage is seen on the base plate with simple engraved text calling out caliber details.

Wearing Experience

The 40mm case wore unlike its proposed diameter, wearing multiple millimeters larger than that proposed size, with the 40mm wearing more like a 42mm in practice. The proportions in relation to thickness created an unconventional experience. It was strange to look down at a watch that was long in its presentation but then see a razor thin side profile.

With the downsized 37mm case, the equation completely changes. The case height is stated to be 6.45mm by Bulgari, though measurements put it closer to 6.65mm. This is certainly taller than the 40mm automatic titanium models at 5.15mm thick. In some ways, the slightly thicker profile actually works in favor of the proportions, and the watch still glues to the wrist as if it is an extension of your body.

The lug-to-lug measures at 42.5mm, yet this does not really tell the full story. If you include the end link on the bracelet, the case length hits 47.3mm, which is the real reflection of wear. If you take the diagonal measurement from corner to corner across, that hits 50mm. In totality, the watch wears like a 39mm circular case equivalent.

The nonchalance of wear is now felt, all while preserving the emphatic statement the broader design seeks to showcase. The lightweight feel of the titanium makes the watch easy to forget you have on, even as the dimensional case keeps drawing your eye.

Buying Advice

The Octo Finissimo is not and was never intended to be a mass-appealing watch. It is bold, unorthodox, has 30m of water resistance, and it is expensive. Not egregiously so given the micro rotor movement and the well-finished construction inside and out, but expensive nevertheless.

To wear it, you need either a connection to Bulgari’s design language, an appreciation for industrial modernism, or simply a value for a watch that deliberately moves against convention while remaining mechanically serious. In short, it rewards eclectic taste and a certain confidence in personal style.

The 37mm version solves the primary issue that kept many potential owners away from the 40mm model. For those with smaller wrists or a preference for more restrained proportions, this downsized case delivers the full Octo Finissimo experience without the oversized wearing feel. The redesigned movement adds durability and efficiency, making this not just a smaller watch but a genuinely improved one.

Conclusion

The Octo Finissimo is one of the rarer examples of a watch that manages to be genuinely original, free of derivative influence. It is an ultra-thin, understated watch that still makes a very strong statement. With the 37mm model, Bulgari has made that statement accessible to a wider range of wrists without compromising the design language or mechanical substance.

For anyone who admired the Octo Finissimo from afar but found the 40mm case too large, the 37mm version is the answer. It is a sleeper watch that deserves serious consideration from collectors who value originality, craftsmanship, and a design that deliberately moves against convention.